The New Star Acid: Polyglutamic Acid Takes Center Stage in Skincare, From Face Mist to Sunscreen

Cosmetic companies are utilizing a novel ingredient that has the ability to retain moisture in the skin, resulting in a more hydrated and plump appearance. The emergence of polyglutamic acid in the beauty industry has caused confusion among consumers who have only recently become familiar with hyaluronic acid, as both ingredients share the common function of hydrating the skin and enhancing its overall health. However, several consumer and clinical studies have demonstrated that polyglutamic acid can retain even more moisture than hyaluronic acid, and as a result, many beauty brands are featuring this ingredient prominently in their latest products.

It’s important to keep in mind that while polyglutamic acid is considered safe, it is not a naturally occurring substance in the body like hyaluronic acid. Furthermore, independent trials that have examined its benefits are few in number compared to those on well-established humectants like glycerin and hyaluronic acid. At present, polyglutamic acid seems to only provide hydration and doesn’t offer any additional benefits like the calming and soothing effects of hyaluronic acid. However, Inkey List’s new Polyglutamic Acid Dewy Sunscreen SPF30 is an excellent product that incorporates high levels of glycerin, which offers the best of both worlds. It’s a versatile product that will appeal to many consumers who typically find sunscreens too greasy, although it may not provide enough moisture for very dry skin. Despite the name being somewhat misleading, this product is priced very affordably.

Glow Recipe was one of the first beauty brands to utilize polyglutamic acid, incorporating it alongside hyaluronic acid in their Watermelon Glow Ultra-Fine Mist (priced at £25), which has become my preferred face mist for warmer weather. While the mist has a noticeable fragrance, it effectively rejuvenates, plumps, and hydrates tired and dehydrated skin in a long-lasting manner, making it an essential travel companion for me.

Another brand that has successfully incorporated polyglutamic acid is REN, with its remarkable Perfect Canvas Smooth, Prep & Plump Essence (priced at £43). I have used this hydrating, soothing liquid before applying my serum one or two times daily for several months, and it has made a significant difference in moisturizing my dry skin during a particularly harsh winter on the coast. Since the essence also contains well-known moisturizing agents like glycerin and hyaluronic acid, I have no intention of discontinuing use anytime soon.

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